Overload!
I never thought it would be this intense. Sights, sounds, smells, physical sensations…from the moment we stepped out of Bangkok International Airport, the sensory overload began. Even with extreme jetlag, we both got our second wind as the taxi whizzed down the highway. We caught images of odd-shaped and very tall highrises, delapidated structures lining the road, pagoda spires looming in the distance, felt the humidity and heat even at midnight, and heard the strange somewhat melodious sounds of the Thai language. Despite our extreme fatigue, we couldn’t wait to start our day!
After some proper sleep and a good breakfast at the City Point Hotel (recommended…an oasis amidst the chaos) we decided to begin at the lungs of Bangkok…the Chao Praya river. Bangkok has an efficient transportation system with both an underground and elevated train system. We took the latter, called the Skytrain (!) to the river’s edge and a main pier to catch the express boat north. We wanted to get an overview of the city as we had only the one day (this leg of the trip—we would be back in a few weeks) and thought taking the virtually free express commuter boat with the locals to the very end and back would be a great city introduction.
As the crowds milled around the pier, we discovered that today was one of the scheduled rehearsals of the “Royal Barge Procession” and for security, part of the river would be closed from noon to 6pm. We decided to take the boat anyway as far as we could go and return to whatever point we could, and then figure out our game plan from there. We went about 10 stops, then made a quick decision to get out at Thornburi pier. When the boat pulled away we realized we were at a very deserted and totally rundown pier with nothing of note to see in the street beyond. Plan B – follow a Frommer’s guide book walking tour of Chinatown. After 20 minutes of searching the river north for an express boat going south, an old Thai man hobbled over and gave us our first experience of Thai kindness. He explained in broken English that there were no boats until 6pm and began to explain the bus system to get us to Chinatown. So kind! A young Swedish couple came up to listen and it turns out they too didn’t know of the barge rehearsal. In the end we decided to share a taxi to Chinatown…so all ended well. Strange couple though—Jehovah’s Witnesses, biopolar and medically challenged—we learned it all in a 15 minute cab ride!
What I remember about Bangkok Chinatown while trying to follow a Frommer’s walking tour: 1) it is one of the largest in the world (outside of China of course); 2) it has blocks and blocks of narrow alleys of vendors selling about everything; 3) everywhere was a seething mass of humanity desperately trying to make their way (and shop!) up and down these alleys; 4) there were no public bathrooms in sight....anywhere (and I was on a crucial mission to find one); 5) there seemed no “normal-looking”(by western standards) restaurants--to eat was our 2nd mission. Add the heat and humidity, plus no bathroom or lunch...the result will do just about anyone in!
By chance, we found an oasis at the end of the walk. The Riverside Guesthouse had a rooftop bar overlooking the river. Quite deserted but views to die for…and beer never tasted so good!
Our final adventure of the day—a dinner cruise up the river. Yes, it is a bit touristy but what a treat to be served a fabulous Thai meal, with wine and Thai music and dance, while enjoying the spectacular views along the Chao Prayo. Bangkok is intense and we want more.
